Fashion Blog

MILAN, Feb 22, 2008 / FW/ — Japanese style dresses made of heavy wool, and trousers in ultra silk, Gentucca Bini, Creative Director for Romeo Gigli challenged the accepted norm of designing clothes and changed the logic of fabrication.

“What was enjoyable was choosing the wrong materials: dresses made of heavy wool and pants in ultra-light silk. It was as if the same outfit became a different thing just by changing the material,” Gentucca Bini commented.

Obviously inspired by the Japanese kimono, Bini also took some cues from Comme de Garcon, using elements from its past menswear collections to create mannish jackets that feature puffy sleeves to evoke femininity.

Using luxe materials like reversible cashmere, velvet and several unusual wool-backed silk, Bini designed linear silhouettes that have deconstruction elements like the small-shouldered coats and jackets that have a different flow to the back or front, alternating fluidity and rigidity.   

Colors are more conventional, from endless shades of green that veer towards taupe, midnight blue, and different nuances of white.

Proposing handbags and clutches in different sized, Bini went for “simple and useful” like a leather pocket or envelope; accessories are made of leather, suede, nappa leather, or colorful fabric. Shoes have a high heel, often a wedge, and are always adorned with intarsia and fine decorations.

(Photo courtesy of Romeo Gigli, click on image to see bigger photo.)