Diary of Paris Fashion Week, Day 1: Fatima Lopes, Ivanahelsinki

PARIS, Feb 23, 2008 / FW/ — After a total travel time of 22 hours (including actual air travel and layovers) from Honolulu to Paris, it was great to be in our Paris apartment and lie down flat in a real bed. But no rest for the weary because in two hours, it was time to see the Fatima Lopes catwalk show.

In a year of change (for those who believe in Chinese astrology, 2008 is the Year of the Rat, and in the Eastern culture, it is a year that signifies a lot of changes), Fatima Lopes was definitely in a transition. Known for her provocative silhouettes, the Portuguese designer changed her temp this season, going from ‘sinner to saint’ with her very somber collection based on black, white and multiple shades of gray.

And though I can honestly say that for the past several seasons, Fatima Lopes is definitely on the right track in getting her label into a new level (pun not intended), for Fall 2008, she seems to falter.

The collection looked unfinished or unresolved.  Wanting to move towards more conservative elegant styles but with weak direction or unsure footing for which direction to go.  Some pieces were reminiscent of old Fatima and others totally new almost monastic by comparison.  A disjointed line that needed to back in the oven for a while. 

Ivanahelsinki, whom I was covering for the first time (am unsure if this is her Parisian debut, need to check on that one), was a little bit more focused and coherent than Fatima Lopes in terms of direction, but the collection is ‘strange and was becoming more strange with each exit.

Rubber moccasins with fringe inside high heels, two-piece strap shoes and knitted tops seem at odds with each other.