PARIS, Feb 25, 2008 / FW/ — The location for the Atsuro Tayama show was on rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, but it caught many fashionistas off guard as it was in the 200 block and quite a distance from any metro stops. As a result, many arrived looking as if they had walked a full day first thing in the morning.
Still, being greeted by a classic rock rendition of Led Zeppelin “Whole Lotta Love” put a smile in many fashionista faces. However, because of the location many of the expected faces were absent.
The show itself was held in the lobby of an art deco building and had many columns blocking everyone’s views. Unless you were sitting in the first row it was like watching a show in a large stand of trees, everyone bending and twisting for a look at what walked down the runway.
But this may have been appropriate as the clothing was a winter wonderland of cashmere, cotton, wool and heavy knits. Large crochet collars suspended upward and held in place by a undetermined piece of fabric connected to the ponytails on the models became theme for the collection. Also seen was the return of the dolman sleeve. Falling in line with the Chinese calendar and the number of 8, another reoccurring theme was the use of the infinity symbol as button enclosures, lending itself to a slight military theme in some pieces.
Veronique Leroy was a beautiful collection of contrasting fabric weights from light early Fall materials to heavy almost tapestry winter pieces. The construction was busy with many components but not overly ornate. The use of multi-colored long and short cut “shag” materials were truly eye-catching.
A signature belt was seen on most pieces in a verity of colors. Veronique Leroy will not disappoint in the winter of this year in year of the rat. Shoes were a combination of lace up and slide on all with a column heel. Overall a great show of cashmere, merino wool with leather skirts, long dresses in pink then black.
Next up to bat was Gaspard Yurkievich.
The Paris-born designer opened his show with a live performance by Sam Sparro and a song called “Black & Gold,” a fast rising hit in the dance scene. The music went hand-in-hand with the collection as it started with black pant-vest suits and inventive use of gold zippers with large gold pulls for collars, elbows and pocket enclosures.
With the exception of one purple fur coat, the collection felt more Fall then Winter as the pieces evolved from medium weight fabrics to very light almost parachute materials at the end. Beautiful use of appliqué and embroidery on the leggings caught our attention, as did the wide diamond jeweled collars on some of the pieces. Overall a nice collection and just may be future of winter fashion if global warming continues.
Robert Normand
Robert Normand show was a standout as he opened with 3 black models. Sequins…sequins…sequins… in various colors ranging from blue to green gold combined with prints reminiscent of Japanese silk screens was the outstanding theme of this collection.
It seems so far we are seeing a strong thread of Asian inspiration in the beginning this season as if to reflect the rise of China as a global influence in politics, art and now fashion. Shoes were adorned with silver leafs and reflective pieces and prints reminiscent of computer logic board designs. Given all the glitter, our impression was that this collection as a whole might fade in to the background this season.
Isabel Marant
Isabel Marant’s show was at the foot of the Eiffel tower in a huge tent that contained a runway so long that one needed binoculars to see the other end. The models had a lot of walking to do and it was obvious Isabel wanted the world to get a good look at her collection, and for good reason.
In short, a beautiful show of black & white coats, khaki colors, plaid pants & rabbit fur. We liked the stitched pieces that reminded us of Native American art.
(Additional reporting by Thomas Barnes)
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[...] Diary of Paris Fashion Week, Day 3: Atsuro Tayama, Veronique Leroy, Gaspard Yurkievich, Robert Norma… [...]
[...] Fashion Blog Diary of Paris Fashion Week, Day 3: Atsuro Tayama Diary of Paris Fashion Week, Day 3: Atsuro Tayama, Veronique Leroy, Gaspard Yurkievich, Robert Normand, Isabel Marant Posted by Errol Murray @ 3:18 am February 26, 2008 [...]