PARIS, Feb 29, 2008 / FW/ — Here at FashionWindows, our editors and writers have identified Martin Margiela as a designer who has proposed a TRUE new silhouette for the 21st century. The beginning of the maison’s research and development was shown to the public during the Spring 2006 season (Oct 2005), culminating with the Fall 2007 season (Feb 2007), as the exaggerated shoulders (50 cm) was unveiled.
A directional evolution continued during the Spring 2008 season; the question here is – what is happening with the Fall 2008 collection with the oversized funnel collars?
Leaning on minimalism, with no adornments or embellishments except for the layering of fishnet fabrics, the oversized collars stood out. The catsuits and the mini dresses sporting these collars actually leave little to the imagination. And this is where the conflict between creativity and wearable art begun in the mind of this fashionista.
As a fashion critic, the phrase ‘wearable art’ leaves a bad taste in my mouth; some of the pieces in this collection are borderline wearable art, although the proportions had remained true to fashion except for the obvious exaggerations.
While Martin Margiela presented a very coherent and tight collection, it is not obvious what direction he is taking. The Spring 2008 collection, for all intent and purposes is the finale presentation for years of research for a new silhouette. It is the crowning glory of the work of an innovative fashion designer.
And though Martin Margiela was never the type to sit on his glory, perhaps, it would have been a good idea for him to allow the new silhouettes he invented to simmer a bit.
On the other hand, the Belgian-designer might be doing exactly that. This might be a long shot, but the oversized collar, which by the way looks ‘insane’ might be how Martin Margiela is driving home the point.
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[...] Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2008: Where Does Creativity End and Wearable Art Begins? [...]