Diary of Paris Fashion Week, Day 6: Leonard, Barbara Bui, Haider Ackerman

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PARIS, Mar 1, 2008 / FW/ — Officially speaking, Feb 28 is the “middle of fashion week” because the season’s ‘official’ kick off was Feb 24. Technically speaking, it is the 6th day because shows began Feb 23. Whether it’s the 5th or 6th day depending on who is counting, we attended Leonard, Barbara Bui and Haider Ackerman.

Leonard

It is well known that all designers find inspiration from one source or another for their collection.  It may be current politics, childhood fantasy or any combination of endless subjects. 

For Leonard, it appears that inspiration this season was textile and fabrics.  More specifically, a focus on one or two prints used in a variety of ways was the theme for his show this season. 

In this way a very strong visual bond was created in flowing draping gowns that drifted beautifully down the runway.  Prints using a combination of organic leaf prints and geometric lines were assembled sometimes alone on a background of solid red, violet and beige. 

Matching handbags and purses in leather accompanied each outfit using what has become Leonard’s signature color palette of lively greens, pinks and blues. 

Barbara Bui

Barbara Bui remained calm with her fall winter designs this season combining simple but elegant pieces in mostly black & white, dark forest greens and the occasional plum ensemble. 

Slim pants and solid tops were wrapped & trimmed in luxurious fur with coats reaching mid-waist and matching leather handbags.  Black short brim fur hats accompanied most of the outfits including black and silver-grey checker wool coats and skirt combinations. 

While this collection was nice in many ways it felt a little on the ’safe side’ as if Ms Bui was designing for an already established cliental rather than stretch in a new direction stylistically, which she had usually done in the past.

We look forward to her next collection. 

Haider Ackerman

Haider Ackerman showed in the Couvent des Cordeliers.  Outside on the entry steps assistants for Haider placed lit incense that filled the courtyard with an earthy, musty smell.  After a short wait, we were allowed to enter the building and show space, which was filled with a smoky haze cut only by dim white spotlights from above. 

As if the audience was waiting for religious ceremony to begin we sat in hush quiet.  When the lights came up and music began the calm was immediately replaced with the power of beautiful models walking the room around us. 

The show began with a beautiful dark chocolate brown top with sleeves wrapped tight from elbow down and matching gathered dress.  Following this, black leather jackets laced from behind combined with rich brown leather pants and boots reaching high up the leg caught everyone’s attention. 

Stunning cream, white and silver silk pieces trimmed with flowing feathers and sheer wraps made us all stretch and turn in our seats for a better look.  When the show finished a resounding hurrah bust from the audience with clapping and cheering, as we all knew we had witnessed possibly one of the strongest collections this season.

(Additional Reporting by Errol Murray)