Jeroen Van Tuyl, Miharayasuhiro, Kazuyuku Kumagai:Edgy

This entry is part 11 of 17 in the series Paris Menswear Spring 2009

PARIS, Jun 28, 2008 / FW/ — Perhaps it is just my imagination, but the third day is packed with edgy young designers who are not afraid to experiment and take chances. Take Jeroen Van Tuyl whose subtle changes made his collection a little softer than his signature straightforward and metro male tough silhouette, Attachment with the stiff linens and Miharayasuhiro with the floral embroidery.

Jeroen Van Tuyl

In the intimate showing of Jeroen Van Tuyl’s new collection the use of waist cinches and the modified trench stood out. Jeroen used modern, structured silhouettes but all with a sense of fluidity. His trench coats’ A-line form was lightly feminine, following this season’s trend of blurring gender lines in fashion.

The color palette was cool with mostly grey and black tones and the occasional pop of orange or copper sequins. He also used the new balloon pant silhouette paired with a modern, collarless jacket.

Inspired by the subtle Hindus reminiscence, the Dutch designer used sorbet shades of light pink, orange pink, light grey, then combined them with shiny fabrics such as oiled black , shiny browns and dark greys for an urban touch.

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Jeroen Van Tuyl Spring 2009 - 01 Jeroen Van Tuyl Spring 2009 - 02 Jeroen Van Tuyl Spring 2009 - 03 Jeroen Van Tuyl Spring 2009 - 04

(Photos courtesy of Jeroen Van Tuyl)

Miharayasuhiro

Miharayasuhiro’s Spring Summer collection consisted of high-waisted, ankle length trousers in shades of cool greys and cargo vests layered over longer button downs. In addition, floral embroidery details and trousers with denim waistlines created unique embellishments. These trousers in particular created the trendy false layering affect.

Also unique was the use of ombré jackets fading from black leopard print shoulders into khaki. The animal print was rather random, and did not exactly compliment the tone of the collection. The fading, however, was seen as an edging to blazers that created a “used” effect.

Kazuyuku Kumagai- Attachment

A show characterized by stiff linens and modern suit lines complimented the trends we have been seeing this season by interpreting both short pants and layering into the collection. The color palette was unique, however, for its use of caramel and cranberry colors for spring. The ribbon detail on the jackets accentuated the line of the back and gave the pieces depth.

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