Fashion Blog

PARIS, Jun 28, 2008 / FW/ — Three very recognizable names that has titanic influence in fashion individually; yet, their approaches for this season of change is very different. Kenzo, under the helm of Antonio Marras continues the label’s design philosophy of merging influences from different cultures while Ann Demeulemeester, designing for her eponymous label reinvents herself and her brand thus propelling the label to the second decade of the 21st century. Unfortunately for Emanuel Ungaro, the collection falters this season. All is not lost though, as the saying goes, there is always next season.

Kenzo

The “Arabian Nights” show for Kenzo created an atmosphere of a Grand Bazaar, complete with middle-eastern tapestries and rugs, and a smoke machine. The lack of seating created an audience with no hierarchy. The color palette was beautiful and celebratory in shades of mustard, ruby pink, blues, greens, whites, and eggshells.

The models walked out in a chaotic, yet orderly manner that created even further the sense of a bustling, Arabian market. There was an abundance of jewel tones, madras checks, artisinal woven stripes and romantic brocades. Waistcoats and suits were edged with ornate swirls of embroidery and Nehru collar jackets were embroidered with panes of thread-work and antique coins.

The evening suits were reminiscent of a midnight sky in deep blues and black. The finale with smoke and silver confetti completed the atmosphere of the palace of dreams.

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Kenzo

Ann Demeulemeester

Emanuel Ungaro

Ann Demeulemeester

An extremely spiritually moving and fashion forward collection by Ann Demeulemeester was presented in an earthy, candid setting. The models followed a winding path through the gardens of the Université Pierre et Marie Curie. The gradual progression of color palette from blacks and tans to whites and crème colors told a story of the progression of life.

To accentuate this spirituality, Ann used models whose ages ranged from barely adults to elderly men. The heaviness, yet airiness, of the black linen ensembles was accentuated by polka dots and stripes. The suits were mostly calf-length pants paired with longer vests and button downs, topped off with large brimmed hats and semi-gladiator sandals.

Another interesting detail was the necklaces the models wore, which resembled skeletal bones hanging on rosary chains. The human quality of the collection was further projected when the ages of the models suddenly increased.

The juxtaposition of the elderly men in airy, natural colored linens against the previously dark dressed, young men was an interesting statement. Perhaps the light colors on the older aged men represent their ascent into an after life. Ann Demeulemeester’s Spring/Summer collection gracefully presented a collection with modern, yet timeless lines.

Emanuel Ungaro

The spring/summer collection for Emanuel Ungaro had an air of Miami Vice with its shocking pink décor and outdoor setting. The silhouettes were very closely cut to the body and reminiscent of the 1970s. Perhaps so much so that it was a little outdated.

The suits had interesting slits in the back that extended about twice as far up from the base as the jacket as usual slits do, revealing more of the pant underneath. Hip slung pants, snugly fit blazers, electric blue, shocking pink, purple, and brown plaids characterized this new spring/summer collection for Ungaro.